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The Ford Journals 1.5.1
The Land of Fire and Ice (Part 1)
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Episode 5: The Land of Fire & Ice (Part 1)
Before Reading
Midnight Sun: In June, Iceland experiences 24-hour daylight, where the un hovers near the horizon, casting an ethereal golden glow over the landscapes, and it never gets dark.
Hallgrimskirkja: The tallest church in Iceland and one of Reykjavik’s most iconic landmarks. Inspired by Iceland’s basalt lava columns, its striking design make it visible from almost anywhere in the city. Visitors can take an elevator to the top for panoramic views of Reykjavik and the surrounding landscape.
Fun Fact: The Leif Erikson statute that stands in front was a gift to the Icelandic Government by the United States in 1930 commemorating the 1,000th anniversary of the Icelandic parliament. Leif Erickson, if no familiar is the Norse explorer believed to have discovered North America around the year 1000—centuries before Columbus.
Silfra Fissure: A world-renowned diving/snorkeling site in Pingvellir National Park, where you can swim between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, known as some of the cleanest water in the entire world, You can drink straight from the source.
Solheimasandur Plane Wreck: The remnants of a U.S. Navy aircraft that crashed landed in 1973, now an eerie yet iconic landmark on Iceland’s black sand beach, in the south of Iceland.
Icelandic Cuisine: From fresh pastries at Sanholt Bakery to Icelandic delicacies like reindeer and fermented shark, the country’s food scene is as bold as its landscapes.
The moment I stepped off the plane in Reykjavik, I noticed it. A folded piece of parchment—wedged into the handle of my suitcase.
It wasn’t airport lost-and-found paperwork. It wasn’t my luggage tag—By this point I knew what it was right away—another clue.
I pulled it free. The paper was rough, aged. But what stood out most was the ink—red, deep, and like a crimson color. The message was brief:
“Where stone splits and waters meet, look beneath.”
REYKJAVIK: FOLLOWING THE FIRST CLUE
I checked into The Reykjavik Edition—my home base for the night. Sleek, modern, everything you’d expect from an Edition property. Perched on the old harbor, it was the city’s newest crown jewel.
After a quick shower, I made my way to Harpa Concert Hall, it’s glass panels shifting colors under the midnight sun. The concert—a haunting mix of Icelandic folk music and modern composition—felt like the prelude to something bigger. A soundtrack for the unknown.
Later that night, I strolled through Reykjavik’s still-bright streets, ending up at Rok, located directly across from the infamous Hallgrimskirkja, just call it Hallgrimur for short, trying to pronounce Icelandic words will make you feel infantile, trust me.
A glass of a well balanced Sauvignon Blanc. A bowl of their tomato soup, with a side of their reindeer carpaccio. The tomato soup—exceptional. The carpaccio, well, I’ll let you try it for yourself.

The infamous tomato soup at ROK in Reykjavik, with the side of cured Reindeer
I kept thinking of the clue—the phrase: “stone splits and waters meet...”—it wasn’t poetic. It was directional.
Then it hit me.
There was only one place in Iceland where the earth itself was torn apart by water: The Silfra Fissure.
DIVING BETWEEN CONTINENTS
By morning, after a great sleep, those beds are really great. I headed to the Silfra Fissure, with Troll Expeditions (a personal favorite) - upon arrival I saw one of the guides I had met last time, Lillian, he was this laid back French guy, with Dive.is, who was the best guide there, hands down.
By 9:30 am I was suited up in a dry suit, standing at the edge of Silfra’s crystalline waters, in the heart of Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park.
The dive was otherworldly. The clarity of the glacial water makes it feel like you’re floating in space. The water you have visibility up to 100m - which is incredible. The water is so cold, it hovers just above freezing. The body fine in the dry-suit, but your lips feel like they are gone.
I drifted between the tectonic plates—North America to one side, and Eurasia to the other.
And then Lillian signaled me, he noticed something different.
And then I noticed it, wedged into the rock beneath me—a small black stone, it’s surface impossibly smooth, almost unreal looking.
It took both of us to pry it loose, flipping it over.
Carved into it were three symbols:
A pair of wings - perfectly symmetrical, spanning the width of the stone
The number “150” - precisely etched
A compass - its needle pointing southward
We surfaced, pulling off our masks, my face regathering feeling slowly.
“Is this what you were looking for?” Lillian asked.I said, “I think it is.”
This was far from over.
THE BLACK STONE CLUE
I asked, “Do you by chance know what any of this could mean?”
Lillian raised an eyebrow. “A code? Or a terrible attempt at an art piece?"
I smirked. “Could be both.” I tapped the stone. “What does the 150 mean?”
He shrugged. “A lot of things.”
I started brainstorming the meaning…
“150 seconds? Maybe I need to time something?”
“150 feet? Something buried?”
“Or—wait—150 years ago? Am I suddenly solving a historical mystery?”
Lillian set back on his heels, watching me like I was a particularly amusing tourist lost in a riddle.
I sighed. “Alright, fine. You’re Icelandic-adjacent. What’s your bet?”
He squinted at the stone, then at me. “Well, let’s think logically. Wings? What does the symbolize to you?”
“Could be a bird, airplane…” I said.
Okay good,” he said. “and the compass means direction, obviously.”
“Yes—yes but look closer at which direction the compass is pointing.” I said.
“South.” Lillian said almost cutting me off.
“Exactly.” I said.
“I took out my phone and immediately put in 150 miles south.”
It put me in the ocean, something that was too rough to navigate and possibly too difficult to solve.
Was this the end of my journey?
Lillian started laughing.
“What’s so funny?” I asked with a more serious tone.
He responded, “You Americans man, and your miles.”
“Yeah, what about it?” I said.
“Get with the rest of the world, we are Kilometers.” He winked.
“Ahhhh, touche Lillian.” I excitingly pulled out my phone again. Looking up to confirm what we both already just figured out.
Solheimasandur. The famous plane wreck that occured in 1973, were United States Navy Douglas crash landed on the black sands beaches in southern Iceland. The aircraft was fling from Hofn to the U.S. military base in Keflavik, ran out of fuel—or at least, that’s one version of the story.
(Fun fact: another version claims the pilot switched to the wrong fuel tank, causing engine failure. Either way, the crew of 7 was forced to make an emergency landing in one of Iceland’s more unforgiving landscapes. All 7 crew members survived with no serious injuries. The wreckage was left behind, gradually stripped by the elements—and by scavengers looking for souvenirs. Today, the plan’es skeletal remains sit in eerie isolation on black sand beach, it’s corroding metal serves as haunting reminder of the crash.)
I thanked Lillian for the help once again and was on my way.
THE ADVENTURE BEGINS
The drive south took me past lava fields, steaming vents, and miles of raw untouched landscape. By the time I reached Solheimasandur, it was getting late in the afternoon, I could have taken the van and parked it and then walked to the site—but what fun is that?
I headed further down the road pulled into a roadside rental shack—with a lineup of ATVs parked outside. I rented one and I was off—ripping across the black sands of volcanic ash.
THE GHOST OF SOLHEIMASANDUR
The plane wreck looked like something out of a war zone. Its fuselage, torn and corroded, was a hollowed-out shell of what it once was. The wings were long gone, either dismantled or stolen, leaving only the broken skeleton of its frame, open tot he elements.
I killed the engine and swung a leg over the ATV, my boots sinking into the damp sand as I approached the scene before me. The air was still, unsettingly quiet, as if the place was holding its breath.
I ran my fingers along the scorched metal. A relic of survival, left now for tourists alike to admire, almost as a work of art.

Then, inside, between the 3rd and 4th row windows, I saw it.
A second black stone, identical to the one I found at Silfra. I picked it up and turned it over.
This time, the symbols were different.
Three symbols, carved deep:
A triangle
MMMM
A symbol of a staircase
I turned back toward the horizon, my mind racing.
This wasn’t just another way-point.
It was now time to head back to my hotel and decipher clue #2.
TO BE CONTINUED…
Since there is a part two, the next release will be Thursday, stay tuned…
.FORD’S HOTEL JOURNAL ENTRY
Reykjavik is cold, moody, and mysterious, and I mean that in the best way possible. The Reykjavik EDITION? Same energy, but add in flawless design, a bar that feels like a secret club, and fireplaces that make you forget you’re in the Arctic.
My suite had the kind of floor-to-ceiling windows that force you to reconsider not moving to Iceland—okay maybe not quite that far—but you get the point.
Minimalist Scandinavian furniture, soft wool throws, and a setting that convinces you to grab a glass of wine and sit down to just enjoy the moment.
A restaurant that could keep you from going out? Tides, the hotel’s Michelin-guided restaurant. They will hand you the menu, but I recommend you hand them your trust. The miso-marinated cod. Perfect. The locally sourced lamb. Also.
The spa was everything a geothermal spa should be. Warm. Restorative. The kind of place where time doesn’t matter—perhaps because also midnight summer, it really doesn’t—as it never gets dark.
And then there’s The Roof, the city’s best rooftop bar. Reykjavik doesn’t do darkness in the summer.
I’ll leave you with this. Some hotels serve as just places to sleep. This one? Gives you plenty of reasons to stay awake.

Photo Credit: The Reykjavik EDITION
THE REYKJAVIK EDITION HOTEL ESSENTIALS
Location: Reykjavik, Iceland
Vibe: A fusion of Scandinavian minimalism and modern luxury, offering a sleek and calming atmosphere
Accommodations:
Standard Rooms: Modern design featuring warm oak floors, marble bathrooms, and floor-to-ceiling windows with harbor city views
Harbor View Suites: Spacious suites with panoramic views of the harbor
Penthouse Suite: A unique suite offering a private terrace, fireplace, and exclusive rooftop access.
Dining:
Tides Restaurant: A Michelin Guide restaurant specializing in seafood from Icelandic waters and locally sourced meats.
The Roof: A rooftop bar on the 7th floor providing panoramic views of Reykjavik and the harbor
Lobby Bar: A dynamic social space offering craft cocktails in a modern lounge type setting
Rates: Standard Rooms start at approximately $350 USD per night, depending on the season and availability, Suites seem to start around $1200/night
Nice to Know: The hotel houses a hidden cocktail bar named Tolt, offering an intimate setting for crafted drinks.
Perfect For: Design Enthusiasts in the need of a calming and relaxing stay, but if they want to get a dose of nightlife, they can with an on-site nightclub. Location is next to Harpa concert hall, and about a 5-10 minute walk to the heart of Reykjavik
Must Have Experience: Sunset cocktails on the rooftop terrace as the call to prayer echoes across the city
Suites: Each room comes with desert panoramas, but the upgraded Desert Pool Suite steals the show with its private terrace, fire pit, and heated plunge pool.
Awards:
Iceland’s Leading Hotel 2024: Awarded by the World Travel Awards
Green Key Award: Recognized for its commitment to environmental responsibility
Forbes Travel Guide: Highlighted for its sophisticated design and luxury offerings
Cosmopolitan: Praised as the epitome of Nordic cool and an ideal base for stays in Iceland.
The PLEDGE on Food Waste Gold Certification: Honored for its efforts in minimizing food waste
Amenities:
Geo-thermal spa that features Nordic wet areas, a sauna, steam room, and relaxation bar
Fitness Center that is open 24 hours equipped with state-of-the-art Matrix Equipment

Overlooking the Old Harbor and Harpa Concert Hall from a Harbor Suite, credit to The Reykjavik EDITION
HIDDEN HIGHLIGHTDon’t miss the hidden cocktail bar Tolt: offering an intimate setting and crafted drinks. | ![]() Photo Credit: The Reykjavik EDITION |
ON THE HORIZON…
“The answer Ford seeks lies somewhere he has yet to decipher. But some doors-once opened-can’t be closed.
Next stop in this Icelandic adventure is somewhere or somebody that is no longer alive, where could it be? ”
OTHER HOTELS FORD WOULD RECOMMEND TO CHECK OUT
If The Reykjavik EDITION is fully booked or you’re seeking a different vibe or price point, here are some alternative boutique and luxury stays in Reykjavik:
Hotel Borg: A historic Art Deco icon in the heart of Reykjavik. Perfect for those who love classic luxury and old-world elegance
Best For: Travelers seeking classic luxury and old-world elegance
Sand Hotel: A stylish boutique hideaway in Reykjavik’s city center. (More of a classic stay, if you prefer modern/sleek, opt for Ion City Hotel
Perfect For: Solo travelers or people seeking cozy, charming, and effortlessly cool, oh, and baked goods lovers, this hotel is owned by Sandholt Bakery.
The Retreat at Blue Lagoon: If you are trying to literally stay inside a lava field, this is the spot. Private lagoons, unreal spa treatments, and the ultimate Icelandic escape.
Great For: Travelers who value a spa-centric getaway and authenticity.
Reykjavik Konsulat Hotel, Curio Collection by Hilton:
3 CAFE’S FORD WOULD RECOMMEND CONSIDERING
Reykjavik’s cafe culture is a must-experience. Here are three spots Ford would recommend.
Sandholt Bakery: The best pastries in Reykjavik, uncontested. Try the kleina (Icelandic doughnut)
Kaffibrennslan: Cozy cafe with a great selection of local coffee blends, and make sure to go upstairs for more secluded seating
Reykjavik Roasters: A cozy spot with minimalist interiors, and very Scandenavian vibe, located near Hallgrimur
*Honorable mention: Mokka Kaffi: The city’s oldest espresso bar, serving Iceland’s best hot chocolate
THROUGH THE KEYHOLE
Next week’s hotel is a true retreat, hidden in the mountains of northern Iceland. You won’t find neon sign or tourist crowds here—only untouched landscapes, adventure, and a stay like no other. Stay tuned…
Always seeking the extraordinary,

Join me on the journey to uncover the world’s most extraordinary boutique stays. |
The Ford Journals blends fictional storytelling with real-world travel inspiration, spotlighting exceptional boutique hotels and unique destinations. All hotels details are accurate at the time of writing; we recommend confirming with the property for the latest updates. Some features may involve partnerships, but all opinions remain unbiased and reflect our commitment to showcasing only the finest experiences.
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